While waiting in line, we met an interesting pair of Dutch fashion curators. It's at shows like these that you truly get to meet like-minded individuals who appreciate the artistry of fashion. Once inside, Coco quietly pointed out that two of the stars of "Emily in Paris" were in the audience. As photographers were frantically taking their photos the room came too a halt, signaling the beginning of the show. Suddenly we were all at a hush and the show began...
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The Kid Super show was everything that I thought it was going to be. Full of celebrities, beautiful people and most importantly the creativity of this American artist and designer. His background is rooted in New York City and started with a few t-shirts but his art drew the attention of many in the industry and grew into the fashion collections that we see today.
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Standing outside waiting for the Rains AW24 show, Coco and I were laughing at how many people kept cutting in front of us when I noticed a figure in my peripheral vision that had been lurking around for a few minutes. It was evident that he was not in line. Upon some conversation, he did not know that this was a fashion show and was very curious. I told him to just stick with me and let's see if we can get him in to see his first show. And this is how I adopted my first fashion orphan.
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The collection drew inspiration from the life and work of British artist Hanna Gluckstein, or “Gluck”. This season was particularly inspired by a painting of Gluck by Romaine Brooks titled, "A Young English Girl" c1923. The portrait exuded both masculinity and simplicity yet it carried an emotional depth with a touch of femininity.
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We were completely jet lagged by this point of our trip and the thought of a 9:30 a.m. show on such a cold and rainy morning felt like torture. But as I looked out the window that morning, I found myself feeling sorry for the models and production who had to be there hours prior. The least I can do is to show up and enjoy the fashion. When we arrived, my colleague started the morning with the comment, "Did I just die and go to heaven?"
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Walking into the Rue Jean Pierre Timbaud courtyard full of colorful banners I truly felt like I finally had been invited to enjoy a joyful summer moment in Paris. It may possibly be because of the sweltering heat the mise en scène was every bit the idyllic European city summer as it could be. Arriving at the TAAKK show and watching everybody file in, many faces looked recognizable and familiar. Not personally, I've just seen them on social media. The excitement built and finally the show began.
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Outerwear is now elegant. I thought I would never see the day. The way that the 90s windbreaker was deconstructed and reconstructed into something extremely modern, beautiful even, brand new length and usages.
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The aquatic theme was felt immediately. As he made his way around the show space, dramatic train in tow, a sheer black mesh one shoulder dress made its way through the crowd. Shades of blue denim paired with white and black mesh, glistening beige sequins and knits and crochets in silhouettes that echoed defiance and a little bit of anarchy paraded through the space. The show was unambiguous and sincere.
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This season's textiles was developed from pieces of the designer's own collection of antique books and old pieces of fabric. A collage was made utilizing these materials lending to the print of the new textiles. The fabric is then treated with an over dye to give it another dimension and reveal a trompe l'oeil visual effect. It took very careful experimentation of various techniques to reach the correct thread count, texture and desired thickness of Chen's textiles.
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There are way too many stairs to climb in Paris. But this show was worth the climb. After finally making it to the top, I looked into the show space and to me, the show had already begun. Walter Van Beirendonck people sure do know how to dress for a Walter Van Beirendonck show. It was like looking at an archive of all of his past creations and the people were there to celebrate his work in the most meaningful way. Wearing metallic vegan leather pants in 90° weather, in a warehouse with no air conditioning. These are true fans.
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It’s June 2023, and it’s time to get away.
Escape the city, escape the daily life. Go in the mountains, party and forget about the world.