Posts tagged fashion presentation
Ujoh AW25

UJOH’s AW25 collection unfolded as a nostalgic yet fiercely modern ode to the subversive spirit of Japanese high schoolers in the ‘90s. Designers Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki, masters of deconstructed tailoring, reimagined the school uniform as a canvas for self-expression, blending rigidity with fluidity. Oversized cardigans draped over asymmetric skirts defied conformity, while leg warmers, echoing the era’s iconic loose socks, whispered of adolescent rebellion.

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HAYELI AW25

The debut of HAYELI’s AW25 collection was a philosophical inquiry draped in liquid organza and laser-cut illusions. The question posed by designers Armine Ohanyan and artist Tigran Tsitoghdzyan lingered in the air like a refrain... Are we the image we see in our reflection, or the one we invent?.

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Shiatzy Chen AW25

Miao silversmithing inspired detachable brooches (sun, butterflies, dragons) and cascading silver-chain necklaces. Studded leather bib tops and quilted jackets echoed the tribe’s talismanic aesthetic, while mandarin collars gleamed with metallic precision. Ten one-off bags, each dedicated to a Miao embroidery technique, stole the show. The Hobo and Secret-zip crossbody offered playful versatility, but the true stars were the embroidered classics, their panels stitched with "histories one by one".

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Paula Canovas Del Vas AW25

Canovas transformed the embassy’s dining hall into a linguistic battleground. Models clad in oversized lime-paper letters rearranged them into English, French, and Spanish phrases, blurring the lines between fashion and performance art. The collection itself was a riot of her signature bold hues and graphic play consisting of lace-up bustiers inspired by Converse sneakers (adorably accessorized with flowers by her mother) and shirting reinvented with furry cuffs and reversible silhouettes.

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Vautrait AW25

"While creating this collection, I understood there is no closure. Perhaps this is why one collection always follows another, there is never a finish line, never a definitive answer, only the question that persists. It may shift in angle or narrative, but it remains the same at its core, a question that will never find resolution." Yonathan Carmel

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ATLEIN AW25

Antonin Tron’s ATLEIN Fall Winter 2025 collection, unveiled at the Palais de Tokyo, was a study in sartorial sculpture. Drawing from prehistoric Venus figurines; symbols of fertility, power, and the female form, Tron reimagined the body as a canvas for architectural drapery.

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Florentina Leitner AW25

Paris Fashion Week’s enfant terrible, Florentina Leitner, turned the American Church in Paris into a fever dream of preppy rebellion with her AW25 collection, “2 Cool 4 School”. The Austrian designer’s signature whimsy met alien futurism in a riot of puffed sleeves, sequined mini skirts, and frilly 3D-flower schoolgirl blazers as if "Princess Diaries" was reimagined by a cyberpunk stylist.

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Maxhosa Africa AW25

Maxhosa Africa’s AW25 showcase was an unmissable crescendo of heritage and innovation. Titled Lo Ngu-Mbulelo (an ode to gratitude and lineage), Laduma Ngxokolo’s collection wove ancestral Xhosa symbolism into a contemporary tapestry of knitwear mastery.

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Matieres Fecales AW25

As Coco and I approached the show venue we were treated to a pre show of brand aesthetic adoring attendees. It was amazing and I told him "...oh this is going to be good..." Because when people go all out for a show, you know the label is truly worth the cult following.

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MMAM AW25

MMAM unveiled its AW5 collection, "Contrasting Layers", an examination in harmonizing opposing forces through fashion, movement, and sound. Designer Park Hyun transformed the runway into a living canvas, where garments became extensions of the body in motion, thanks to a collaboration with choreographer Lee Ruda.

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RE RHEE AW25

Asymmetrical coats with razor-sharp lapels melted into fluid skirts, while tailored jackets dissolved into billowing sleeves, a nod to Rhee’s Korean heritage and its harmony of opposites. Matte wool clashed with iridescent vinyl, and quilted panels brushed against sheer organza, creating a tactile narrative of resilience and delicacy.

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Roisin Pierce AW25

As I approached the Irish Embassy and ascended the blue carpeted grand staircase on Avenue Foch I was very excited to return to a Roisin Pierce show. It has been a few seasons since I had attended one and this designer's haunting garments have always resonated with me. Róisín Pierce’s AW25 collection, "Nothing Pure Can Stay", wasn’t just a show, it was a whispered elegy to fleeting beauty, a tactile sonnet spun from lace and longing. The title, borrowed from Sylvia Plath and Vladimir Nabokov, set the tone; delicate, melancholic, and achingly romantic.

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Uma Wang AW25

Wang’s exploration of proportion was deliberate; nipped waists, inflated hips, and elongated torsos echoed historical dress codes without veering into costume. Oversized blazers and cocoon like parkas contrasted with sleek, architectural underpinnings, creating a dynamic interplay between expansion and contraction.

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Julie Kegels AW25

Julie Kegels unveiled her Fall 2025 collection; a witty, subversive homage to late 20th-century corporate aesthetics. The 26-year-old Antwerp designer, known for her razor sharp reinterpretations of nostalgia, drew inspiration from Judith Price’s 1980 book, “Executive: Achieve Success Through Taste”, a flea-market find that became her muse. The result? A collection that oscillated between tech-bro irony and high-design sophistication, all while questioning the gendered tropes of power dressing.

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Casablanca AW25

Arriving at the show we were greeted by two friendly mascots, a tennis ball and an orange. We took our seats and were treated to more gifts, stickers that we can use on notebooks, water bottles, etc. It truly felt like Casablanca embraced the Japanese culture, small gifts for big happiness.

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ROCHAS AW25

Inspired by Hélène Rochas’ legendary 20th-century ball, the collection blended archival reverence with playful irreverence. Think cocoon coats in plush crocodile-printed wool, sharp tailoring with heart-shaped sleeves, and dresses that rustled like unwrapped bonbons, each piece a nod to Marcel Rochas’ surrealist legacy.

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Marie Adam Leenaerdt AW25

It was a long walk to the show venue and I didn't feel like looking at my phone for directions anymore. It was like the universe heard my thought and sent me my very own white rabbit. I heard the clickety-clack of red leather heels, followed them up to a woman in a long overcoat and a large leather clutch. It was obvious that if I followed her, I'd surely arrive at the show.

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ABRA AW25

Abra drew inspiration from those small-town boutique trips with his mother, where "from Paris" labels sparked fantasies of cosmopolitan elegance. This season, he reversed the script, crafting garments that became those coveted imports.

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Maison ARTC AW25

London Fashion Week is always a whirlwind of creativity, but Maison ARTC’s AW25 presentation, "Coming Home", was a standout moment, a love letter to Morocco woven from memory, diaspora, and reinvention. Artsi Ifrach, the visionary behind the label, delivered a collection that felt both deeply personal and universally resonant, blending vintage textiles with contemporary storytelling.

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Maison Sara Chraibi AW25

Chraibi, one of only two North African designers on the LFW schedule (whose work was more well suited for the Paris Haute Couture Week schedule), drew from the very air around us; fluffy clouds, midnight skies, and starlight. Her signature fusion of Moroccan modesty and European glamour shimmered through. Ethereally translucent organza coats draped over silk skirts and beaded constellations trailed down gowns like falling stars.

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