UJOH’s AW25 collection unfolded as a nostalgic yet fiercely modern ode to the subversive spirit of Japanese high schoolers in the ‘90s. Designers Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki, masters of deconstructed tailoring, reimagined the school uniform as a canvas for self-expression, blending rigidity with fluidity. Oversized cardigans draped over asymmetric skirts defied conformity, while leg warmers, echoing the era’s iconic loose socks, whispered of adolescent rebellion.
Read MoreThe debut of HAYELI’s AW25 collection was a philosophical inquiry draped in liquid organza and laser-cut illusions. The question posed by designers Armine Ohanyan and artist Tigran Tsitoghdzyan lingered in the air like a refrain... Are we the image we see in our reflection, or the one we invent?.
Read MoreMiao silversmithing inspired detachable brooches (sun, butterflies, dragons) and cascading silver-chain necklaces. Studded leather bib tops and quilted jackets echoed the tribe’s talismanic aesthetic, while mandarin collars gleamed with metallic precision. Ten one-off bags, each dedicated to a Miao embroidery technique, stole the show. The Hobo and Secret-zip crossbody offered playful versatility, but the true stars were the embroidered classics, their panels stitched with "histories one by one".
Read MoreCanovas transformed the embassy’s dining hall into a linguistic battleground. Models clad in oversized lime-paper letters rearranged them into English, French, and Spanish phrases, blurring the lines between fashion and performance art. The collection itself was a riot of her signature bold hues and graphic play consisting of lace-up bustiers inspired by Converse sneakers (adorably accessorized with flowers by her mother) and shirting reinvented with furry cuffs and reversible silhouettes.
Read More"While creating this collection, I understood there is no closure. Perhaps this is why one collection always follows another, there is never a finish line, never a definitive answer, only the question that persists. It may shift in angle or narrative, but it remains the same at its core, a question that will never find resolution." Yonathan Carmel
Read MoreAntonin Tron’s ATLEIN Fall Winter 2025 collection, unveiled at the Palais de Tokyo, was a study in sartorial sculpture. Drawing from prehistoric Venus figurines; symbols of fertility, power, and the female form, Tron reimagined the body as a canvas for architectural drapery.
Read MoreMaxhosa Africa’s AW25 showcase was an unmissable crescendo of heritage and innovation. Titled Lo Ngu-Mbulelo (an ode to gratitude and lineage), Laduma Ngxokolo’s collection wove ancestral Xhosa symbolism into a contemporary tapestry of knitwear mastery.
Read MoreAs Coco and I approached the show venue we were treated to a pre show of brand aesthetic adoring attendees. It was amazing and I told him "...oh this is going to be good..." Because when people go all out for a show, you know the label is truly worth the cult following.
Read MoreAsymmetrical coats with razor-sharp lapels melted into fluid skirts, while tailored jackets dissolved into billowing sleeves, a nod to Rhee’s Korean heritage and its harmony of opposites. Matte wool clashed with iridescent vinyl, and quilted panels brushed against sheer organza, creating a tactile narrative of resilience and delicacy.
Read MoreJulie Kegels unveiled her Fall 2025 collection; a witty, subversive homage to late 20th-century corporate aesthetics. The 26-year-old Antwerp designer, known for her razor sharp reinterpretations of nostalgia, drew inspiration from Judith Price’s 1980 book, “Executive: Achieve Success Through Taste”, a flea-market find that became her muse. The result? A collection that oscillated between tech-bro irony and high-design sophistication, all while questioning the gendered tropes of power dressing.
Read MoreInspired by Hélène Rochas’ legendary 20th-century ball, the collection blended archival reverence with playful irreverence. Think cocoon coats in plush crocodile-printed wool, sharp tailoring with heart-shaped sleeves, and dresses that rustled like unwrapped bonbons, each piece a nod to Marcel Rochas’ surrealist legacy.
Read MoreIt was a long walk to the show venue and I didn't feel like looking at my phone for directions anymore. It was like the universe heard my thought and sent me my very own white rabbit. I heard the clickety-clack of red leather heels, followed them up to a woman in a long overcoat and a large leather clutch. It was obvious that if I followed her, I'd surely arrive at the show.
Read MoreAbra drew inspiration from those small-town boutique trips with his mother, where "from Paris" labels sparked fantasies of cosmopolitan elegance. This season, he reversed the script, crafting garments that became those coveted imports.
Read MoreChraibi, one of only two North African designers on the LFW schedule (whose work was more well suited for the Paris Haute Couture Week schedule), drew from the very air around us; fluffy clouds, midnight skies, and starlight. Her signature fusion of Moroccan modesty and European glamour shimmered through. Ethereally translucent organza coats draped over silk skirts and beaded constellations trailed down gowns like falling stars.
Read MoreArrival at the show consisted of receiving a Passport book and answering a short questionnaire to see which group you belong in. Are you an adventurer, warrior or an introspective thinker? From that point, we began our journey through the YAKU Universe of various vignettes and of course through a journey of fashion.
Read MoreWalking into St. Paul’s Church for Hector Maclean’s AW25 show, "Bastard Aristocrat", the atmosphere was buzzing with anticipation, equal parts reverence and rebellion. The setting alone, with rain-slicked cobblestones and Union Jack umbrellas bobbing outside, felt like a metaphor for Maclean’s collection, a collision of sacred tradition and anarchic energy. As the wind picked up one of the umbrellas and set it flying majestically across the runway, the show begins...
Read MoreThe energy at Ray Chu’s AW25 showcase was a magnetic blend of audacity and vulnerability. Titled "CHAPTER V: KISS ME", the collection marked Chu’s London Fashion Week presentation with a statement; fashion is not just worn, it’s felt. The Soho venue, intimate yet charged, became a stage for silhouettes that defied gender norms, wrapped in a dreamy palette of dusky pinks and molten metallics.
Read MoreGorey’s signature subversion was everywhere. Her signature disheveled elegance of crushed velvet dresses with asymmetrical hems, as if thrown on in haste, but cut with precision. Metallics and sheer panels blurred the line between last night’s party and this morning’s aftermath.
Read MoreCharlie Constantinou’s AW25 showcase at London Fashion Week felt like stepping into a mirage, industrial grit melting into Saharan warmth. Held at 180 The Strand, the space was transformed with hand-dyed drapes and dappled lighting, echoing the collection’s fusion of technical precision and nomadic romance.
Read MoreThe Kalighat paintings; bold, fluid, and unapologetically narrative. These works, born near Kolkata’s Kalighat temple, once chronicled mythology and social change. Gupta reimagined them with a modernist twist, collaborating with Midnapore artisans to handcraft prints that feel both ancient and urgent.
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