KIDILL AW25
KIDILL is absolutely insane. And I'm pretty sure they take that as a compliment, which is the way that I intended. When Pedro and I showed up at this presentation it seemed kind of quiet and I actually appreciated it. The models were all standing in a line with a traditional Japanese music band in the back. The music consisted of hauntingly melodic flute and strings punctuated by precise percussion. The presentation seemed to be pretty mellow but we did not expect what was to come.
With Hiroaki Sueyasu at the helm, the AW25 collection, aptly titled “Formal Anarchist,” was a love letter to the late 1990s and early 2000s Harajuku, a time when Tokyo’s youth redefined fashion by blending punk, rave, and cyberpunk aesthetics with a fearless sense of individuality. But this wasn’t just nostalgia, it was a reimagining of the past through the lens of today.
The show initially felt intimate, almost meditative, until it wasn’t. Shenanigans properly ensued. There was an explosion of sound, energy, and movement that blurred the lines between runway and audience. By the end of the presentation, we were all swept into a chaotic dance led by the Seppuku Pistols, whose thundering drums bulldozed through the crowd in what can only be described as “chaotic forte.” It was immersive, visceral, and unforgettable.
Sueyasu’s inspiration for this collection stems from his memories of Harajuku during its golden era, a vibrant epicenter where fashion met music and youth culture thrived. Central to this narrative is his collaboration with A STORE ROBOT, an iconic Harajuku shop with deep roots in punk culture. Known for its historic revival rights to Vivienne Westwood’s Seditionaries, this partnership infused KIDILL’s collection with authenticity while paying homage to punk’s enduring legacy. The clothes themselves were a daring fusion of industrial textures, provocative color contrasts, and cyberpunk inspired elements (think, "Hackers"). Metallic coatings paired with bright camouflage patterns evoked Harajuku’s dizzying contrasts while unconventional stitching added an edge that felt both raw and refined. The collection also featured whimsical illustrations by Los Angeles artist Brett Westfall. Strawberries, skaters, and punk kids danced across chinos, padded coats, and MA-1 jackets. These playful touches balanced the collection’s heavier themes with a sense of humor and lightness.
Sueyasu has always been drawn to the idea of “pureness within chaos,” and this season was no exception. From baggy metallic pants to fluffy noodle-like wigs, every piece pushed boundaries without losing its charm or wearability. The juxtaposition of rave culture with punk rebellion created an electrifying tension that felt fresh yet familiar, a testament to Sueyasu’s ability to channel nostalgia into something freshly reimagined. But what truly set this show apart was its ability to transcend fashion as mere clothing. Sueyasu understands that what we’re really buying into is a vibe, a feeling of belonging to something bigger than ourselves. By merging Tokyo’s essence with his experiences in London, he created a collection that felt deeply personal yet universally resonant.
KIDILL AW25 wasn’t just about looking back, it was about using history as a tool for shaping an unrestrained future. By celebrating Harajuku’s rebellious spirit while questioning the authenticity of style in today’s world, Sueyasu crafted a collection that bridges eras. It doesn’t just honor punk culture, it redefines it for a new generation. I left the venue still buzzing from the hypnotic drums and chaotic energy, I couldn’t help but feel that KIDILL had achieved something extraordinary. This wasn’t just a fashion show, it was a multi sensory experience and a celebration of creativity, individuality, and the enduring power of rebellion. And that is the fashion that I remember falling in love with in the first place.
