SSTEIN AW25
It’s always a pleasure to be in Paris, especially during Men’s Fashion Week. There’s something uniquely captivating about the industrial yet relaxed energy that permeates these events. This season, my journey began with SSTEIN, a Japanese unisex brand making its international debut at Paris Men’s Fashion Week AW25. And let me tell you, it was nothing short of transformative.
This was my first encounter with SSTEIN, and I was utterly captivated by the intricacy and thoughtfulness of Kiichiro Asakawa’s designs. The collection was a masterclass in layering and interchangeability, every piece seemed to flow effortlessly into the next, creating a wardrobe that felt both cohesive and endlessly versatile. It was the epitome of what I’d call “effortless dressing,” but with an emphasis on dressing. These weren’t just clothes; they were statements.
The color palette stayed firmly rooted in steadfast neutrals; black, white, shades of grey, and a beautiful heathered chestnut. These tones worked harmoniously with the complex textures of leather and knitwear, creating looks that felt grounded yet elevated. If my entire wardrobe were replaced by this collection overnight, I wouldn’t complain for a second.
SSTEIN’s AW25 collection marked a significant milestone for the brand, which recently won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo 2025. Asakawa, the self-taught designer behind the label, described his approach as “no gimmick,” focusing instead on the essence of his craft; beautifully precise garments. The collection featured 36 meticulously curated looks presented on both male and female models, emphasizing its unisex ethos. Asakawa drew inspiration from an emotionally intimate relationship between a photographer and their subjects, a concept he called “resonance.” This theme was reflected in the tonal subtleties of the collection’s dominant greys; taupe, greige, charcoal, layered in different materials to create depth and texture. SSTEIN’s signature fabric, a two-ply black wool with anti-scale and anti-wrinkle coatings, was reimagined in various grey hues to stunning effect.
Fabric innovation lies at the heart of SSTEIN’s creations. From napped Beaver cloth in cashmere blends to combed two-ply Melton wool for coats and jackets, each material was chosen to balance smoothness with structure. Workwear elements made an appearance in whipcord fabrics, washed nylon for outdoor pieces, and even cotton/yak mixes for T-shirts. The denim range expanded this season as well, offering cuts from extra wide to slightly flared, each pair aged through intricate processes like stone-washing and air-brushing.
One standout feature was the architectural tailoring evident in pieces like the double-lapel jackets or docking coats. A new style of dropped-shoulder jackets and coats crafted from Loro Piana doeskin showcased an innovative approach to silhouette construction, relaxed yet undeniably commanding. The accessories this season added an unexpected edge to SSTEIN’s otherwise understated aesthetic. A macramé vest made from black paracord introduced a sporty yet funky vibe when layered over tailored looks. Meanwhile, super-wide black leather belts doubled as corsets or integrated seamlessly into outerwear through specially designed slits, a clever nod to Asakawa’s emphasis on resonance between garment and wearer.
SSTEIN’s debut at Paris Men’s Fashion Week felt like more than just a collection; it was an invitation into Asakawa’s world. A world where precision meets emotion, where garments resonate deeply with their wearers. As I left the show, I couldn’t help but feel excited about what lies ahead for this groundbreaking brand. Paris has always been at the heart of fashion innovation, but this season felt particularly special thanks to SSTEIN’s unforgettable debut. If this is just the beginning for Kiichiro Asakawa on the global stage, I can’t wait to see where his journey takes us next.
For more information about SSTEIN, visit their website HERE.
