This season, Ouest took us behind the dodgy looking curtain at the very back of the video rental store and unveiled the world of the Ouest man. Kitschy, sexy, tongue in cheek and around lollipops at this presentation.
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Ujoh's luxurious AW24 collection channels 80s nomadic elegance and was a stunning display of sartorial sophistication. AW24 drew inspiration from Bruce Weber's iconic "Men & Women" photography series from the 1980s. Designer Mitsuru Nishizaki masterfully translated the essence of that bygone era into a modern, luxurious wardrobe for the contemporary urban nomad.
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What this designer does so well is textiles. Nie actually teaches you how to appreciate textiles in this trilogy. Anybody can design a long sleeve maxi dress with a scoop neckline. The fabric that is used is the foundation of the design.
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I have been trying to get into the Marques show for years now. Technically, I still haven't gotten in but that's okay, there are other ways to see a collection. I was fortunate enough to be invited to the Paris showroom for Marques 'Almeida. I desperately wanted to see their AW24 collection. When I finally went through the collection, I was so glad that I did not see it on the runway first.
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Fast and furious they came down the runway, one after another moving at a pace that I had difficulty keeping up with because there was so much to appreciate in each look.
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Arguably the sexiest collection I've seen this season, Atlein brought a lot confidence forward. AW24 is full of sporty pieces that translated so well into some workwear and lots of dramatic evening wear. The draping of the slinky looks were so masterfully done that it will probably look good on just about anybody.
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The presentation at the Temple de Pentemont felt like a quintessential London affair, evoking a sense of nostalgia even for those who had just experienced the city's vibrant fashion scene mere weeks ago. The collection's punk-meets-graduating art student vibe was a refreshing departure from the typical Parisian polish, reminding us of the raw energy and creativity that London is known for.
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To the average person this fashion show would have seemed more like an art exhibition. Which it was, truly. But to a fashion designer you can sense the massive undertaking of these creations. In order for them fit and move with the body, they have to be masterfully executed.
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It is apparent that Ariane Theunissen now knows exactly who she is as a young designer. My companion noted that this collection felt "very LA". Perhaps it's just a matter of time before the entertainers and celebs get their hands on it.
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After the wonderful showroom visit, I walked down to the Rue Saint-Honoré. At the corner of Chanel and Dior, I couldn't help but think that ArdAzAei's collection is way too precious for mass-market companies like these. Her designs truly shine above the rest, embodying a level of artistry and attention to detail that sets her apart in the industry.
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The show starts off with a string quartet and experimental sounds were being played on violins. Initially it sounded like insects, but then it started to get a little creepy feeling. By the time the vocals came in I was properly a little freaked out. It sounded like a soundtrack to a horror movie. It was extremely eerie and intense. The vocals were more intense as a show went on and it really begged the question, what am I missing here? The clothing itself doesn't seem spooky or horror themed ...what will I see upon a closer look?
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In this multi-cultured exploration, Edward Crutchley took influences from Greek mythology, ancient Egyptian textiles and Moroccan wall hangings. He had paired these influences with traditional English tailoring and the Tudor way of dress. The large shoulders, the empowered monarch, wearing more to "take up space" was fashionable for that time.
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AW24 is the first season that a faint little heartbeat has started to be heard from London Fashion Week. Although it is true that many of the marquee designers are still missing from the calendar, I can confidently say that there are so many small independent gems left to be discovered. One such label is Noon by Noor.
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Walking into the Rue Jean Pierre Timbaud courtyard full of colorful banners I truly felt like I finally had been invited to enjoy a joyful summer moment in Paris. It may possibly be because of the sweltering heat the mise en scène was every bit the idyllic European city summer as it could be. Arriving at the TAAKK show and watching everybody file in, many faces looked recognizable and familiar. Not personally, I've just seen them on social media. The excitement built and finally the show began.
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It wasn't very long ago that it would almost be unheard of that a Nigerian based designer would be showing in any of the European fashion weeks. But designer Adeju Thompson of Lagos Space Programme reached deep into his heritage for inspiration to develop a collection that is not only true to where Nigeria has been but where it is going.
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Outerwear is now elegant. I thought I would never see the day. The way that the 90s windbreaker was deconstructed and reconstructed into something extremely modern, beautiful even, brand new length and usages.
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The aquatic theme was felt immediately. As he made his way around the show space, dramatic train in tow, a sheer black mesh one shoulder dress made its way through the crowd. Shades of blue denim paired with white and black mesh, glistening beige sequins and knits and crochets in silhouettes that echoed defiance and a little bit of anarchy paraded through the space. The show was unambiguous and sincere.
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This season's textiles was developed from pieces of the designer's own collection of antique books and old pieces of fabric. A collage was made utilizing these materials lending to the print of the new textiles. The fabric is then treated with an over dye to give it another dimension and reveal a trompe l'oeil visual effect. It took very careful experimentation of various techniques to reach the correct thread count, texture and desired thickness of Chen's textiles.
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There are way too many stairs to climb in Paris. But this show was worth the climb. After finally making it to the top, I looked into the show space and to me, the show had already begun. Walter Van Beirendonck people sure do know how to dress for a Walter Van Beirendonck show. It was like looking at an archive of all of his past creations and the people were there to celebrate his work in the most meaningful way. Wearing metallic vegan leather pants in 90° weather, in a warehouse with no air conditioning. These are true fans.
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It’s June 2023, and it’s time to get away.
Escape the city, escape the daily life. Go in the mountains, party and forget about the world.