This season, Ouest took us behind the dodgy looking curtain at the very back of the video rental store and unveiled the world of the Ouest man. Kitschy, sexy, tongue in cheek and around lollipops at this presentation.
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Ujoh's luxurious AW24 collection channels 80s nomadic elegance and was a stunning display of sartorial sophistication. AW24 drew inspiration from Bruce Weber's iconic "Men & Women" photography series from the 1980s. Designer Mitsuru Nishizaki masterfully translated the essence of that bygone era into a modern, luxurious wardrobe for the contemporary urban nomad.
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When asked about the mesmerizing motifs adorning her creations, Tolegen revealed that they were crafted in a historical style, yet generated through the innovative power of AI. The textiles she had chosen were nothing short of lavish, and upon closer inspection, the level of exquisite detail was truly awe inspiring.
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What this designer does so well is textiles. Nie actually teaches you how to appreciate textiles in this trilogy. Anybody can design a long sleeve maxi dress with a scoop neckline. The fabric that is used is the foundation of the design.
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I have been trying to get into the Marques show for years now. Technically, I still haven't gotten in but that's okay, there are other ways to see a collection. I was fortunate enough to be invited to the Paris showroom for Marques 'Almeida. I desperately wanted to see their AW24 collection. When I finally went through the collection, I was so glad that I did not see it on the runway first.
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Fast and furious they came down the runway, one after another moving at a pace that I had difficulty keeping up with because there was so much to appreciate in each look.
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Arguably the sexiest collection I've seen this season, Atlein brought a lot confidence forward. AW24 is full of sporty pieces that translated so well into some workwear and lots of dramatic evening wear. The draping of the slinky looks were so masterfully done that it will probably look good on just about anybody.
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The presentation at the Temple de Pentemont felt like a quintessential London affair, evoking a sense of nostalgia even for those who had just experienced the city's vibrant fashion scene mere weeks ago. The collection's punk-meets-graduating art student vibe was a refreshing departure from the typical Parisian polish, reminding us of the raw energy and creativity that London is known for.
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To the average person this fashion show would have seemed more like an art exhibition. Which it was, truly. But to a fashion designer you can sense the massive undertaking of these creations. In order for them fit and move with the body, they have to be masterfully executed.
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It is apparent that Ariane Theunissen now knows exactly who she is as a young designer. My companion noted that this collection felt "very LA". Perhaps it's just a matter of time before the entertainers and celebs get their hands on it.
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After the wonderful showroom visit, I walked down to the Rue Saint-Honoré. At the corner of Chanel and Dior, I couldn't help but think that ArdAzAei's collection is way too precious for mass-market companies like these. Her designs truly shine above the rest, embodying a level of artistry and attention to detail that sets her apart in the industry.
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The show starts off with a string quartet and experimental sounds were being played on violins. Initially it sounded like insects, but then it started to get a little creepy feeling. By the time the vocals came in I was properly a little freaked out. It sounded like a soundtrack to a horror movie. It was extremely eerie and intense. The vocals were more intense as a show went on and it really begged the question, what am I missing here? The clothing itself doesn't seem spooky or horror themed ...what will I see upon a closer look?
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After speculating for about 2 minutes they pulled back the curtains and there she was. It was Joanna Lumley in all of her glory and she began performing the "Confessions of Lilith" by Fatima Farheen Mirza. I have never before in my life wanted to cry from seeing somebody that I was such a big fan of, but Joanna Lumley did it for me.
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London, February 16th, 2024 - Step into the stylish realm of ‘Galaxy Beyond’ by Mark Fast, where fashion merges with urban city architecture and combines space-inspired charm, gothic realm, and luxurious comfort, creating a striking presence on the urban streets.
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In this multi-cultured exploration, Edward Crutchley took influences from Greek mythology, ancient Egyptian textiles and Moroccan wall hangings. He had paired these influences with traditional English tailoring and the Tudor way of dress. The large shoulders, the empowered monarch, wearing more to "take up space" was fashionable for that time.
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Seems like everybody was waking up from a long slumber. Whether it be a physical rest or a mental one, there were themes of awakening in this collection. The accessories were gold foil pouches of protein powder bags and yoga mats. There was also a nod to different elements of horror from pop culture, from Michael Jackson's "Thriller" to the monsters from "Stranger Things".
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While waiting in line, we met an interesting pair of Dutch fashion curators. It's at shows like these that you truly get to meet like-minded individuals who appreciate the artistry of fashion. Once inside, Coco quietly pointed out that two of the stars of "Emily in Paris" were in the audience. As photographers were frantically taking their photos the room came too a halt, signaling the beginning of the show. Suddenly we were all at a hush and the show began...
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The Kid Super show was everything that I thought it was going to be. Full of celebrities, beautiful people and most importantly the creativity of this American artist and designer. His background is rooted in New York City and started with a few t-shirts but his art drew the attention of many in the industry and grew into the fashion collections that we see today.
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Standing outside waiting for the Rains AW24 show, Coco and I were laughing at how many people kept cutting in front of us when I noticed a figure in my peripheral vision that had been lurking around for a few minutes. It was evident that he was not in line. Upon some conversation, he did not know that this was a fashion show and was very curious. I told him to just stick with me and let's see if we can get him in to see his first show. And this is how I adopted my first fashion orphan.
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The collection drew inspiration from the life and work of British artist Hanna Gluckstein, or “Gluck”. This season was particularly inspired by a painting of Gluck by Romaine Brooks titled, "A Young English Girl" c1923. The portrait exuded both masculinity and simplicity yet it carried an emotional depth with a touch of femininity.
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