Lagos Space Programme AW25

As the band played I settled into my spot at the show space at the Palais du Tokyo. Memories of my first encounter with Lagos Space Programme (LSP) came flooding back. It was a serendipitous discovery, following Jeanne Friot's presentation that season. Since that fateful day, LSP and its visionary designer Adeju Thompson have been on an incredible journey, and I couldn't be more thrilled to witness their evolution.

This season, LSP's AW25 collection, unveiled at Paris Men's Fashion Week, was a testament to Thompson's growth as a designer and his ability to weave personal narratives into his creations. The collection, aptly titled "Rock & Roll Consciousness," drew deeply from Thompson's experiences growing up in Lagos, Nigeria, and his love for music that spoke to the outsider's experience.

Thompson's latest offering struck a delicate balance between LSP's Nigerian tribal roots and a more interpretive, nuanced approach to design. The collection maintained the brand's signature use of artisanal accessories and ancient dyeing techniques, but presented them in a way that felt fresh and contemporary. The silhouettes were relaxed yet refined, with a focus on perfecting the iconic design elements that define the brand.

What truly set this collection apart was its exploration of vulnerability and introspection, a departure from the bold aesthetics often associated with African fashion. Thompson shared, "I was always searching for music that spoke to me, music that felt like it understood the outsider's experience. That's the heart of this collection, creating garments that express vulnerability and beauty in new, delicate ways." This sentiment was evident in the collection's attention to detail. Trousers adorned with French lace at the hem and carefully engineered ruptured hems reflected a desire to elevate subtle moments of beauty in fashion. The non-binary design ethos remained at the heart of the collection, making the clothes wearable for everyone, regardless of gender.

Thompson's material choices were equally thoughtful. Wool gabardine took center stage, chosen for its warmth and versatility. The designer continued to push the boundaries of traditional craft with àdìrẹ, an organic indigo dyeing technique. This season's collection offered fresh and innovative expressions of àdìrẹ, breaking from past conventions and adding contemporary relevance to the craft.

As the models walked to the live music of Spanish Horses, a rising rock band from Paris, it was clear that Thompson had successfully bridged multiple worlds. His unique blend of British menswear styles infused with elements of West African Yoruba attire created a striking contrast that effectively situated Lagos Space Programme within a broader, global context. Thompson's ability to navigate the balance between global ambitions and local authenticity was on full display. As he playfully remarked, "When you think of African identity, rock bands in Nigeria might not come to mind, but that's part of my background."

As the show concluded, I couldn't help but feel a sense of pride and excitement for LSP's future. Thompson's vision of creating an alternative African narrative that resonates with emotion and embraces softness and tenderness is not just refreshing, it's revolutionary. With each collection, Lagos Space Programme continues to challenge perceptions and push the boundaries of what African fashion can be on the global stage.

For more information about LSP, visit their site HERE.