Kolor SS24

Outerwear is now elegant. I thought I would never see the day. The way that the 90s windbreaker was deconstructed and reconstructed into something extremely modern, beautiful even, brand new length and usages.

Jeanne Friot SS24

The aquatic theme was felt immediately. As he made his way around the show space, dramatic train in tow, a sheer black mesh one shoulder dress made its way through the crowd. Shades of blue denim paired with white and black mesh, glistening beige sequins and knits and crochets in silhouettes that echoed defiance and a little bit of anarchy paraded through the space. The show was unambiguous and sincere.

Ziggy Chen SS24

This season's textiles was developed from pieces of the designer's own collection of antique books and old pieces of fabric. A collage was made utilizing these materials lending to the print of the new textiles. The fabric is then treated with an over dye to give it another dimension and reveal a trompe l'oeil visual effect. It took very careful experimentation of various techniques to reach the correct thread count, texture and desired thickness of Chen's textiles.

Walter Van Beirendonck SS24

There are way too many stairs to climb in Paris. But this show was worth the climb. After finally making it to the top, I looked into the show space and to me, the show had already begun. Walter Van Beirendonck people sure do know how to dress for a Walter Van Beirendonck show. It was like looking at an archive of all of his past creations and the people were there to celebrate his work in the most meaningful way. Wearing metallic vegan leather pants in 90° weather, in a warehouse with no air conditioning. These are true fans.

Kidill SS24

The Louvre is a place where they store and present beautiful things. Although Kidill will probably never describe themselves as traditionally beautiful, their SS24 collection challanges exactly that. Kidill demonstrates more than ever that punk is not just a way of being or looking. It is beyond that, it's a state of mind.

White Mountaineering SS24

"White (urban) Mountaineering (outdoors)" Design, Function, Technology. Combining these elements and remaining true to ourselves White Mountaineering.

Rains SS24

Far from the sight of water, the audience is immersed in a sound bath; echoing drips, rippling splashes, pouring water. Resonant piano notes strike, marking the start of the show; soundtracked by Danish
composer, Frederik Valentin. His dreamy, ethereal composition evokes rainfall. The opening look captivates attention; an ode to Rains’ signature rainwear silhouettes. Models file in behind, entering the dry show space as if caught in a downpour outside, their hair saturated, their skin decorated with surreal raindrops. The space itself is focused, centered; all attention is fixed on the energy of the runway.

Ujoh AW23

Thankfully I was sent a show package and I opened it up with as much excitement and anticipation as I had for attending the show itself. I've been following Ujoh for a few seasons now and this designer has always gotten it right. Just the right amount of intricacy and the end result is magic. Although I cannot deem the missing of the show as one of my magical moments I can say that this AW23 collection is a magical collection.

Calvin Luo AW23

A hand delivered by messenger, sleek glossy black bag with a cut-out handle arrived for me. Inside was an invitation in a black square box containing a black rose. Calvin Luo sure knows how to treat a lady. Being invited to a show in this way is my magical moment number 8.

EENK AW23

After about 20 minutes when everybody has settled in the blue lights started to fade away and we can see each other in our true presentations once again. Beautifully dressed attendees, socialites and starlets. Industry professionals with their cameras and phones ready. The first model in a long fringed blue capelet shredded through the sculpture and into the room.

Game On

Taiwanese designer Jenn Lee launches her AW22 collection utilizing the unlimited powers of the virtual world. This season, Lee partners with award winning production company, Renovatio Pictures to launch a treasure hunting VR game.

Space Rave

In the avant-garde world of Custo Barcelona, more is always more. Vibrant colors, futuristic patterns, and multicolored sequins filled the runway at Custo Barcelona’s New York Fashion Week 2022 show.

I'm Outdoorsy

In this collection, White Mountaineering delivers reimagined patterns from the retro recreational styles of the '80s and '90s. This collection inspires us to venture out and revel in nature.

So Many Feelings

"We feel things they'll never feel" This phrase, spotted on the London tube, has become the title of Passaro's latest AW22 collection. Intended as an ode to hypersensitivity it stems from a deep sense of time and dreams of self-expression.

We are Also Aliens

If nothing else the last 2 years have allowed us to reach deep within and remember who we were before life happened to us. What we really wanted to wear and why. I feel an almost nostalgic vibe when I see WVB’s collections. Call me crazy but…

Masculine Lounging

This was by far the most surprising collection I came across during Paris Men's Fashion Week. Upon first inspection I was not expecting all of the thought that went into this seemingly simple collection. This is one of those rare times when I glance at a collection first and think, that's pretty interesting and I like the vibe. Then I read the press release and find out what it's really about and I am completely in love with it.

Lucid Dreaming

Through various collections this theme has been explored and investigated and continues to be studied by Chen as each collection is presented almost like a progress report of his most recent findings. The designer finds the coexistence of reality and a dream state fascinating, the existence of fantasy in conjunction with the objective world, the rational and irrational, the non-existence of time. This collection reflects the designers consciousness, fluctuating graphics like waves through a lucid dream.

Triggering

In this peculiar time of human history, human beings are the most triggered variable in ecology and also the most likely to trigger other variables. Observing human behavior and consciousness on both objective and subjective perspectives, the physical and psychological distance have been significantly widened.

Not Standard Issue

We may feel like we own the Earth but the truth is, the Earth owns us. More than ever, we as a collective consciousness are finally wrapping our heads around this. We are constantly working within a natural framework, not the other way around. The foundations for this collection is cotton, wool, shearling, leather and metal. All of these natural materials are manipulated and shaped to express the aesthetics and functionality that enhance our lives.

Collaboration

The movements evoke new emotions to the wearer through its collaboration with the comfort and lightness of the materials. The fabrics create dynamic curves around the form and in places where slits were created the figure can be freed.

The Fashion Edit Journal