Masculine Lounging

Louis Gabriel Nouchi AW22

“Les Paradis Artificiels” de Charles Baudelaire

This was by far the most surprising collection I came across during Paris Men's Fashion Week. Upon first inspection I was not expecting all of the thought that went into this seemingly simple collection. This is one of those rare times when I glance at a collection first and think, that's pretty interesting and I like the vibe. Then I read the press release and find out what it's really about and I am completely in love with it.

Louis Gabriel Nouchi's lifetime of passion for reading lead to each of his collections paying homage to a book or a writer who has inscribed their vision on the world. This collection is inspired by the book, "Artificial Paradises" by Charles Baudelaire. In an atmosphere of warmth, sensuality and unbridled dancing, nightclubs allowed for an escape from reality. Sometimes there was even an air of melancholic poetry. Every night came to an end and this collection bears the memory of an end to such an affair; when you leave the evening, sweating, grabbing your huge coat, catching your breath and hailing a taxi.

In the nightclubs, indoor clothing can be worn outside and vice versa. The collection is a variation of tuxedo jackets, dressing gowns and bodysuits all mixed with the comfort and sensuality of loungewear. Now that we are more at home, comfort inspired pieces are treated with the same refinement as evening clothing. The large pieces are belted, avoiding buttoning to be adaptable to all the morphologies. This was a detail that I did not expect from this collection or this designer, the consideration of adaptable clothing. As we all become more conscious of the environment that we live and work in, we are more sensitive to inclusivity and accessibility. Long side slits on coats, jackets, trousers and shirts reveal the body by freeing up movement, allowing access to the pockets of the garment layered below.

Another collaboration detail that I had not expected was the shoe sponsor, Merrell. I cannot tell you how comfortable this brand in particular is and it has always been known as being very utilitarian, dowdy even. But the laser cut foam mules that were presented alongside this collection definitely leaves me wanting a pair for myself. All in all, this was a very adaptable and home friendly collection in the guise of “going out clothes”. These digital prints were printed in Italy, quilted on recycled nylons and made with consciously sourced materials. A very well thought out collection. That's what we get from a designer that loves to read. I cannot wait to see the next chapter of this book.