Fast and furious they came down the runway, one after another moving at a pace that I had difficulty keeping up with because there was so much to appreciate in each look.
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Arguably the sexiest collection I've seen this season, Atlein brought a lot confidence forward. AW24 is full of sporty pieces that translated so well into some workwear and lots of dramatic evening wear. The draping of the slinky looks were so masterfully done that it will probably look good on just about anybody.
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The presentation at the Temple de Pentemont felt like a quintessential London affair, evoking a sense of nostalgia even for those who had just experienced the city's vibrant fashion scene mere weeks ago. The collection's punk-meets-graduating art student vibe was a refreshing departure from the typical Parisian polish, reminding us of the raw energy and creativity that London is known for.
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After the wonderful showroom visit, I walked down to the Rue Saint-Honoré. At the corner of Chanel and Dior, I couldn't help but think that ArdAzAei's collection is way too precious for mass-market companies like these. Her designs truly shine above the rest, embodying a level of artistry and attention to detail that sets her apart in the industry.
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The show starts off with a string quartet and experimental sounds were being played on violins. Initially it sounded like insects, but then it started to get a little creepy feeling. By the time the vocals came in I was properly a little freaked out. It sounded like a soundtrack to a horror movie. It was extremely eerie and intense. The vocals were more intense as a show went on and it really begged the question, what am I missing here? The clothing itself doesn't seem spooky or horror themed ...what will I see upon a closer look?
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After speculating for about 2 minutes they pulled back the curtains and there she was. It was Joanna Lumley in all of her glory and she began performing the "Confessions of Lilith" by Fatima Farheen Mirza. I have never before in my life wanted to cry from seeing somebody that I was such a big fan of, but Joanna Lumley did it for me.
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Standing outside waiting for the Rains AW24 show, Coco and I were laughing at how many people kept cutting in front of us when I noticed a figure in my peripheral vision that had been lurking around for a few minutes. It was evident that he was not in line. Upon some conversation, he did not know that this was a fashion show and was very curious. I told him to just stick with me and let's see if we can get him in to see his first show. And this is how I adopted my first fashion orphan.
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We were completely jet lagged by this point of our trip and the thought of a 9:30 a.m. show on such a cold and rainy morning felt like torture. But as I looked out the window that morning, I found myself feeling sorry for the models and production who had to be there hours prior. The least I can do is to show up and enjoy the fashion. When we arrived, my colleague started the morning with the comment, "Did I just die and go to heaven?"
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Paris in Winter isn't pleasant. This season I finally understood how Europeans in the last centuries died of consumption. The streets are cold and damp, buildings that are hundreds of years old drip dirt all over you and finding a warm place to escape the weather isn't as easy as it should be. I was overjoyed to enjoy a little respite at the Airei presentation. I did not expect, however, to walk right into the '80s Maxwell cassette ad.
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... Before we get into that, I want to go back to the mid-90s. It was July in Paris and I was the typical 90s teen; unchaperoned, untracked and without a phone in Paris for a whole summer. There will never be a time in the future where this experience will ever be duplicated.
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Never have I ever been so unsettled to walk into a fashion show before. At first glance, this show was just extremely weird. After a long day of running around Paris, I was more than elated to land in the Palais de Tokyo at the Empty Behavior show. I have never heard of this brand before that day and it took me a while to figure it out, what exactly I was there to see?
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The details of this collection were so unusual to me because they were oversized but didn't feel ostentatious. The way the waves were depicted on the body really free flowed from the waist to the hip and into the back, like if a wave had hugged you. The accessories were large and angular, anchoring the softer edges of the clothing.
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A performance artist was reading a poem written by the designer in French about the human experience, or rather the human workhorse. Life was described as just non-stop work and enjoying a small morsel of the fruits of our labor until one day we inevitably perish.
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Walking into the Rue Jean Pierre Timbaud courtyard full of colorful banners I truly felt like I finally had been invited to enjoy a joyful summer moment in Paris. It may possibly be because of the sweltering heat the mise en scène was every bit the idyllic European city summer as it could be. Arriving at the TAAKK show and watching everybody file in, many faces looked recognizable and familiar. Not personally, I've just seen them on social media. The excitement built and finally the show began.
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It wasn't very long ago that it would almost be unheard of that a Nigerian based designer would be showing in any of the European fashion weeks. But designer Adeju Thompson of Lagos Space Programme reached deep into his heritage for inspiration to develop a collection that is not only true to where Nigeria has been but where it is going.
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I somehow ended up at St. Martin’s because of a girl and that's kind of yeah… many years ago I started at menswear and then I finished it and it went pretty well and then someone was actually like, “Hey, you made it, have you heard about the [fashion] festival in France?” And I went 20 years ago.
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I really appreciate how straightforward Phipps is; it's simply good, durable, quality clothing. It's just good clothes. The buzzword that we have heard in recent years in fashion is of course, sustainability. This notion has been used to reinvent many labels which is why Phipps was careful to not label outright that this is a sustainable collection, although it obviously is in the truest sense of the word. Sustainability through durability.
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The aquatic theme was felt immediately. As he made his way around the show space, dramatic train in tow, a sheer black mesh one shoulder dress made its way through the crowd. Shades of blue denim paired with white and black mesh, glistening beige sequins and knits and crochets in silhouettes that echoed defiance and a little bit of anarchy paraded through the space. The show was unambiguous and sincere.
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This season's textiles was developed from pieces of the designer's own collection of antique books and old pieces of fabric. A collage was made utilizing these materials lending to the print of the new textiles. The fabric is then treated with an over dye to give it another dimension and reveal a trompe l'oeil visual effect. It took very careful experimentation of various techniques to reach the correct thread count, texture and desired thickness of Chen's textiles.
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It’s June 2023, and it’s time to get away.
Escape the city, escape the daily life. Go in the mountains, party and forget about the world.