ROCHAS AW25

Walking into the Hôtel des Italiens for Rochas’ AW25 show, I felt the same thrill as stepping into a grand ball. Alessandro Vigilante’s latest collection, “Femme” Le Bal, was a love letter to the opulence of soirées past, yet utterly modern in its execution. Coco and I were in awe of the intricately designed staircase rotunda that surrounded the show space. All the attendees stood around a spiraled red velvet couch as models cascaded down the stairs and formed a charming party.

Inspired by Hélène Rochas’ legendary 20th-century ball, the collection blended archival reverence with playful irreverence. Think cocoon coats in plush crocodile-printed wool, sharp tailoring with heart-shaped sleeves, and dresses that rustled like unwrapped bonbons, each piece a nod to Marcel Rochas’ surrealist legacy. The swan motif, a tribute to Rochas’ 1934 Bird Dress, appeared in feathery textures and bold orange-beak accents, symbolizing strength and fragility alike.

Vigilante’s color story was a dream; midnight blue clashed with bubblegum pink, while antique gold and smoldering red added drama. Double-face fabrics revealed hidden contrasts with movement—a clever touch for the modern woman who commands attention. Textures stole the show, from shimmery lace (a Rochas signature) to lurex-knit dresses that caught the light like champagne bubbles.

This wasn’t just a collection for the ballroom. Vigilante grounded the fantasy in wearability; sleek pencil skirts with ruffles, hourglass dresses, and tailored trousers offered versatility. His background in dance shone through, every piece seemed designed to move, celebrating the wearer’s grace. Rochas AW25 balanced heritage with contemporary flair. Vigilante’s swan song proved that fashion can be both extravagant and effortless, just like the best nights out.