Ujoh AW25

UJOH’s AW25 collection unfolded as a nostalgic yet fiercely modern ode to the subversive spirit of Japanese high schoolers in the ‘90s. Designers Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki, masters of deconstructed tailoring, reimagined the school uniform as a canvas for self-expression, blending rigidity with fluidity. Oversized cardigans draped over asymmetric skirts defied conformity, while leg warmers, echoing the era’s iconic loose socks, whispered of adolescent rebellion.

UJOH’s material alchemy elevated nostalgia into luxury. Brushed flannel twill, rugged yet tender, mimicked well-worn uniform jackets. Textured jacquard mimicked fur with hand-cut ribbons, a tactile dance of structure and softness. Waxed wool gabardine lent sculptural precision to silhouettes, while recycled polyamide quilting recreated the puffiness of winter school coats.

The collection’s ingenuity lay in its playful contradictions. Oversized knits mocked standardized sizing, their slouchy volumes a middle finger to conformity. Modular plastrons (detachable bibs) could be knotted or left loose, a metaphor for identity in flux. Rugby inspired alpaca sweaters clashed with yak wool leg warmers, a subtle nod to ‘90s layering. Shirts transformed mid-stride, their button plackets dissolving into ribbon ties or lavallière bows.

Delicate tulip embroidery honored Japan’s school tradition of nurturing bulbs, a metaphor for growth. The debut of UJOH’s silver crest badge, repurposed as a school emblem, anchored the collection in faux-nostalgia. A moody base of navy, taupe, and bottle green erupted with flashes of electric lime and sky blue, like a uniform punctuated by clandestine DIY alterations.

UJOH’s AW25 wasn’t just a collection, it was a time machine to a decade where rule breaking became an art form. As the models strode past, their layered defiance felt eerily current, proof that the quiet revolutions of youth never truly fade.