Vautrait AW25

The VAUTRAIT AW25 show was less a presentation and more a meditation on fashion’s eternal paradox, the absence of closure. Creative director Yonathan Carmel’s collection rejected the pursuit of definitive answers, instead embracing the unresolved as its guiding principle.

"While creating this collection, I understood there is no closure. Perhaps this is why one collection always follows another, there is never a finish line, never a definitive answer, only the question that persists. It may shift in angle or narrative, but it remains the same at its core, a question that will never find resolution." Yonathan Carmel

Fashion, in this sense, stands in contrast to technology or science, which tend to move past unanswerable questions, seeking only what can be measured. VAUTRAIT’s work belongs to a different order, one tied to secrecy, to a space beyond logic and language. It resembles an agent carrying a secret within a suitcase, a secret he cannot access. Perhaps that is its condition; to remain hidden, never fully revealed. This philosophy rejects purpose driven thinking, where design is confined to predetermined functions. Instead, VAUTRAIT celebrates the mistake as a rupture, an opening where the unintended emerges. A mistake here isn’t an accident, it’s a revelation. It proves that creation isn’t the execution of a plan but an event born between intention and resistance, between mind and hand.

The collection’s craftsmanship embodied this ethos. Tailoring and draping techniques echoed a lineage of gestures passed down through practice, not instruction. When the hand works, whether in tailoring or weaving, it doesn’t follow rigid steps, it listens. This knowledge defies language, it’s felt, not explained. VAUTRAIT AW25 reworked archival pieces and deconstructed vintage finds, prioritizing continuity over novelty. The result was a dialogue between past and present, where garments became vessels for unresolved questions rather than statements of trend.

VAUTRAIT’s AW25 collection didn’t seek answers. It asked us to sit with the unresolved, to find beauty in the perpetual question. In an industry obsessed with the next, Carmel’s work is a rare reminder, fashion’s power lies in its ability to linger, unanswered.