Matieres Fecales AW25

As Coco and I approached the show venue we were treated to a pre show of brand aesthetic adoring attendees. It was amazing and I told him "...oh this is going to be good..." Because when people go all out for a show, you know the label is truly worth the cult following. Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, the Montréal-based duo behind the brand, transformed their decade-long subversion of beauty norms into a runway spectacle that was equal parts haunting and haute.

Once known for peddling one-off pieces on Depop, the duo’s evolution under Dover Street Market’s incubator program culminated in a PFW debut that defied expectations. Their signature alien-esque prosthetics and shaved brows were present, but the collection revealed a surprising restraint, leather bombers with pagoda shoulders, razor sharp suiting, and trench coats whispered quiet cool amid the theatrics.

The collection juxtaposed deconstructed grit with couture-level craftsmanship. Hand stitched gowns demanded hundreds of hours, while cross seams paid homage to the designers’ rebellion against religious upbringings. I hope people noticed the collaboration with Christian Louboutin. Models wore tall, curved pumps that looked weaponized, it was the revival of their infamous skin heels from 2020.

Rick Owens, their self-proclaimed godfather, watched approvingly as models, some swathed in feathery apocalyptic wraps, stormed the runway. The finale’s winged silhouettes, Dalton noted, were tributes to “those who protected us during our battle to get here”. “With trans and queer rights under global siege, visibility isn’t optional, it’s urgent,” Dalton told Hypebae. Bhaskaran added, “This is about freedom. Ten years ago, we were too scared to be ourselves”.

Matières Fécales didn’t just debut a collection; they weaponized fashion as a mirror for societal dissonance. If Paris is ready for the reflection, the world should be too.