Roisin Pierce AW23

I've never been a churchgoer, and definitely not in the mornings. But I was happy to go to church the morning of the Roisin Pierce show. It was a brisk and sunny morning and the walk to the American Church in Paris was a beautiful one along the Seine. Arriving at such a serene place added to the magic of the week and I will consider this magical moment number 4. The morning light highlighted otherwise typically unseen details of the building and the view of the courtyard façade changed slightly with every step as I walked through the gothic arches of the outdoor corridor. It was simply exquisite.

Inside the church auditorium there were a few pews laid out back to back and alongside a wall. After a short wait the presentation began and a model came out in a white lace and silk gown with hand manipulated textures and a handkerchief veil. As the presentation went on white gown after white gown walked over the main stage and down through the crowd. Layers of ruffles, shirring, tulle and appliques adorned the models. It looked like a fashion first communion. This collection appeared to me to be about the strength of women and the expectations of their gender role but also to their differences. The designer having used just one non color and a limited variety of textiles, she reinvented the situation in so many different ways, befitting each wearer's uniqueness.

In fact, "Beware, Beware" is actually a material response to Lady Lazarus, Sylvia Plath's exploration of the fear a woman evokes when she is sure of her place and intentions. Women traditionally have been viewed as terrifying when in possession of knowledge and power. Fighting censorship from both the church and state, this collection reflects the transparent struggle of the women of the past in order for us to be the women of now. The haunting pace of this presentation in conjunction with the ethereal sensibilities of this collection makes this magical moment number 5 in my Fashion Week.