Pauline Dujancourt AW25

When the PR person at a show tells you to sit front row instead of your designated second row seat, it is like getting upgraded to First from Economy Plus on a flight. When I got upgraded, I knew this show was going to be special. Pauline Dujancourt’s AW25 collection is a delicate ode to memory and rebirth. As someone who’s raced through Parisian traffic to catch a closing gate (KIMHEKIM SS25), I appreciate when a show demands you slow down and Dujancourt’s did just that.

The inspiration this season was Dujancourt’s grandmother’s flower, a plant that bloomed only after her passing. This flower and the memory of her grandmother anchored the collection. The designer translated this into fabrics that seemed to breathe. Mohair and feathered tulle tangled with wool, as if each piece were a living thing regrowing itself. The palette consisted of moody reds and ethereal greys, a nod to Tracey Emin’s raw emotionality.

Central Saint Martins’ knitwear alumna didn’t just drape, she wove stories. Hand-knitted by an all female Peruvian collective, the pieces blurred the line between heirloom and avant-garde. It’s no surprise she’s ELLE UK’s Generation Next winner, this is craftsmanship with a pulse. While London’s runway often thrives on provocation, Dujancourt whispered. Models moved like shadows through a garden, their silhouettes asymmetrical yet fluid.

Dujancourt’s AW25 isn’t just a collection, it’s a reminder that fashion’s power lies in its intimacy. The absence of theatrics made the clothes speak louder. This is how you do quiet luxury without the buzzwords.