Uma Wang SS25

Uma Wang showed her latest collection at the American Cathedral in Paris during the Spring Summer '25 season. Coco and I arrived, half drenched but happy that we braves the inclement weather. We shook off our umbrellas on the way into the show and promptly took our seats. I have always loved Uma Wang, and I'm pretty sure I always will. The way that she brings in the volume into a beautiful drape, so that the dress does not run away from the figure is genius. Think exaggerated hips, flowing drapes, and layers upon layers of luxurious natural textiles.

Every single piece is always full of drama and desire. The collection drew inspiration from Constantin Brâncuși’s philosophy: "Simplicity is complexity resolved." This ethos was evident in every silhouette, as Uma Wang stripped away unnecessary embellishments to reveal designs that were both minimal and deeply intricate. The garments seemed to sculpt the air around them, with lines and volumes that redefined how fabric interacts with space. The color palette was another triumph. Uma Wang expanded her signature earthy neutrals into shades ranging from soft gesso to deep tobacco, punctuated by a surprising burst of washed-out red. This subtle yet striking use of color amplified the collection's emotional depth. Each piece felt like a story unfolding, a quest for balance in an unbalanced world.

Volume was undoubtedly the star of the show. Dresses cascaded in dramatic layers without overwhelming the figure, a testament to Uma Wang's genius in tailoring. There was an intentional imbalance to many pieces, creating a sense of purposeful unease that kept you captivated. The decadence of it all was undeniable, but it never tipped into excess; each garment felt like a resolved equation of complexity. In a world where fashion often feels fleeting, Uma Wang's SS25 collection stands as a timeless exploration of beauty and artistry. Is it wearable? Perhaps not for everyone. But is it desirable? Absolutely.

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