Anrealage SS24

Trying to get into the Anrealage show was complete mayhem. The crowd gathered in a pit at the Palais de Tokyo with the security screaming at everybody to backup. When we were finally all let in, it was such a curious setup. There was a square in the middle of the room and we were all positioned around the square which resembled a boxing ring. Then the first model came out in a vinyl ensemble, stepped into the middle of the square and a light started to shine on her. Her ensemble changed from white to a multicolored vision.

This season, building on his exploration of Umwelt (German for environment or surround-world), Kunihiko Morinaga uses a colorless PVC base for his creations. Using his trademarked ANVISUAL photochromatic technology, he creates a series of transparent "empty" garments and uses UV light to transform them. Garments are made from denim, cotton and Ultrasuede in contrasting colors. This technological innovation creates a kaleidoscope of colors to the audience's delight.

Other than being a scientific marvel, are his clothes wearable? Yes they absolutely are. When you look closely enough past the illusion of color you will see that the garments are meticulously designed. Each layer can be worn separately and the introduced to other outer layers or an easily interchangeable closet. Mock turtleneck long sleeve shirts with slim cut pants fit nicely underneath just about anything. The outerwear is not just all PVC, a traditional trench coat has been dissected and reassembled with PVC cloth to incorporate this new technology. Unique textures such as a bubble wrap, a caged technique and also patches reminiscent of a crochet squares are included in this collection. Traditional puffer coats were reimagined to resemble inflatables but can insulate a body in the cold weather. This collection is designed for the future... but thankfully it is available now.