Talent Overdrive
On Off LFW SS20
The closing show of London Fashion Week never disappoints. This innovative talent support platform established in 2002 by Lee Lepthome fostered some of the most exciting labels in the UK and internationally including but not limited to JW Anderson, Louise Gray, Gareth Pugh, Peter Pilotto and Osman. Following in their footsteps is a new crop of leading edge talent which include for this SS20 season Jimmy Paul, Daniel Pascal Tanner, Yan Dengyu, Rose Danford-Phillips and Colin Horgan. Having been familiarized with a few of these designers from a past season, I was eager to see what they have been up to.
This season Jimmy Paul collaborated with the much loved Hello Kitty. The Amsterdam-based designer designed a collection celebrating Hello Kitty’s 45th anniversary. This perfect collaboration is the latest in Paul’s “high-fructose” aesthetics. Hello Kitty herself lead the charge, dancing down the runway in a blue twirly gown. Yes, I completely lost my s*** when I saw her. The 5 year old within me completely lost it and shrieked with excitement. The following ensembles of red, rose, light teal, pops of yellow and denim was a complete blur of fantasy and pure joy in ruffled and frilly tulle with very easy to wear French terry. This sugar coated collection is all the sweetness the world needs right now.
Daniel Pascal Tanner’s signature mix of textiles needed no introduction, I immediately recognized it. His SS20 collection in collaboration with Liberty London was the perfect escape from this timeline. Tanner’s interest in using historical fashion as personal escapism translated so well, I wanted the entire collection! Having myself spent hours at Liberty London looking at their extensive textile department I was in total bliss seeing this collection. Layers upon layers of print in various weights and rich colors, perfectly tailored to fit the propriety of the 18th century that it was inspired from (except for modern hemlines of course). This was truly a delicately magnificent collection.
Yan Dengyu’s over the top one off pieces were just, brilliant. The black bodysuit played a large role in the foundation of the creations, the other fabrics in organza and various silks were built on top of this foundation. The result was a dramatic collection that seems at first look costume but upon further examination it really could be paired down for real life situations…maybe, hopefully…meaning I really want a chance to wear these creations.
Rose Danford-Phillips’ collection, “Kiss of the Earth” was inspired by the sublime energy of nature in Spring and Summer. The models looked like earth fairies, just stunning. Each adorned in wild whirling colors and delicate accessories. Feathers and beads fell off the body freely and with each movement the colors of the garments interacted with the wearer with each step.
Colin Horgan presented a woman of today faced with post-human obstacles. The textiles used for this collection reflected the notion of strength and reinforcement. Silhouettes in obelisk grey, mercury silver. Iridescent evergreen and luminescent blue were explored in both fortifying and fluid roles. The elaborate way Horgan’s garments move always amazes me. The first look came swinging down the runway, I followed the hypnotic swishing of the elongated fringe until I was distracted by the second look immediately following it. Equally hypnotic even with a shorter fringe. Works in patent leather, satin and jersey flowed into each other. Black pants with fringe cascading down the leg exuded strength and BDE. Actually, the entire collection could be described as BDE. I am totally on board with this, Colin. Bravo, you did it again!
