Uma Wang AW23
I always love the process of waiting for everybody to come into a show, the people watching is just on another level. As I settled in I quickly noticed an influencer in a long body clinging red dress who kept getting pulled from her seat to be photographed and she absolutely loved it. When her friend seated next to her, in a pair of oversized mirrored sunglasses (inside a very dark cathedral) finally got a request, she seemed delighted and almost relieved that all of her efforts didn't go to waste. This made me wonder, what are the motives of fashion labels these days? Are they getting enough out of these influencers, is the trade-off really mutual? Just to be curious, I later did research the coverage of the show and the influencers featured in the pre-show extravaganza and I was not surprised that there was not much written about the show itself on their pages in the aftermath. But maybe that's okay, maybe it's enough for these labels. I decided that I may never fully understand it so I'll just stay in my lane and appreciate fashion design for what I know it to be. An art form that I absolutely love and adore.
The show began with a single model walking through the cathedral at a pace that was not quite ceremonious and maybe even a bit hurried. I couldn't quite see the details until the model made her round over by me. A heavy chunky, textured wool gathered at the bust and draped into a strapless gown accessorized with large gold hardware came into focus. As she walked past me the intricately ornate shadows made by the cathedral's architecture adorned her like an accessory, or an impermanent pattern. I will end up seeing the entire show this way, each look, reimagined with the extra adornment courtesy of the architecture at the American Cathedral in Paris and the blessing of light from nature into these beautiful stained glass windows.
There were so many textures in the show, it was both dramatic and beauteous. Bordeaux hued glossy worn leather paired with a plush quilt. Fur skirts were worn with luxurious knits and oversized suede vests. There were majestic marigold silk velvets and beautiful Rococo inspired prints in jewel tones against a humble earthtone background. All of the accessories were gold and circular, as if they were sweeping through the body. This collection was opulent and grand but at the same time extremely wearable. Perfection.