First Woman in Space

Bora Aksu London Fashion Week AW19

This season’s Bora Aksu I am delighted to see the continuity of the dark twist on romanticism but with a fresh injection of futuristic themes as this collection is dedicated to Valentina Tereshkova, the first woman in space. The mix of traditional luxury materials and new material textiles is innovative in the sense that it is mingling timelines. What was luxury and what is the meaning luxury of the future? The show opened with a beautiful mix of shearling and light teal contrast on white lace. The hip length open front shearling jacket, paired with a delicate multi-tiered lace and pleated chiffon was a juxtaposition that plays off each other in a whimsical manner. A traditionally knit popcorn and chevron textured sweater paired with cascading lace graced the runway next and I was left fantasizing about being able to pull off this very flattering silhouette.

The colors moved in and out of shades of white and grey. Bora Aksu utilized white in a utilitarian way in his white hooded winter jacket but paired it with frivolously delicious layers of lace and embellishments. Out of nowhere like a decadent dessert, a shimmer of iridescent pink came strolling down the catwalk. This knee length drop waist dress swung around the model with a purpose and the purpose was to delight. The show pivots into a display of pink shearling and crinkle chiffon. At this point I was feeling an inexplicable feeling of optimism. Pink and red cascades of ruffles in knit and lace lead to a stunning asymmetrical dress of pink and iridescent crinkled chiffon. This trend of traditionally “spring pastels” for AW19 was joined by whispers of blues and muted purples.

Per Bora Aksu tradition, the show ended with a parade of colorful, opulent gowns. I always feel as if Aksu’s gowns have stepped into a time vortex and properly translated to meet today’s needs and tastes. Layers and layers of translucent “microgravity” textiles utilized in traditionally heavier displays of construction creates a uniquely modern adaptation of traditionalism. The luxury of these gowns leaves us all looking forward to next season.