Paolo Carzana AW24

By the time this show rolled around, I was already a little over London Fashion Week. Not because of the shows, because of the weather. I was not used to having to be constantly outside, in the cold and rain in January. Much to my relief, the Paolo Carzana show took place at the official BFC show space. It was such a welcome sight for me and felt like the official "welcome back" that I was waiting for all week.

Immediately, you can spot a section of a bench amongst the seating that had a display of natural dyes and flowers. Some were fairly fresh but most were dried flowers. I think it was safe to say that this suggested most of the fabrics used in the collection were naturally dyed. In fact, this collection was inspired by the mountains, both figuratively and in reality. The designer's Welsh and Italian roots gave him an appreciation for hard work and manual labor in particular. His grandfather who had worked with metals was an inspiration.

The show itself started with a performance of a few models in muted lighting. To tell the truth, I couldn't really see what was happening since they were halfway down the runway. When the runway began and one by one the looks came out, I absolutely loved the drama of it all. The oversized gathers and dramatic textile manipulation paired with the natural dyes were opulent in a sense that only time could make luxurious. Meaning, it is because of the hard work at hand that it was made opulent although the seemingly rustic materials would have suggested otherwise. This collection felt like it was from a humble origin and was showing us the complexity and the beauty of those origins. At first glance these were tattered clothes, but upon closer inspection they are highly artisanal, couture process pieces.

Carzana feels that we are working through some of the hardest times in humanity right now. Our darkest trek up the mountain, through the storm. Humanity as a whole has so much to walk against at this moment. Through pattern construction and draping, working with the 2D and 3D together, Carzana crafted these garments around the body and explored the silhouette. Through this journey he was encouraged to bring light from the dark, balancing strength and fragility, encapsulating the romance of life. The collection was dedicated to his grandfather, who had passed some years ago.

For more about Paolo Carzana, click HERE