Helen Anthony AW24

I arrived at the Helen Anthony show at the Kimpton Fitzroy and really took my time getting ready for the show. What I mean is, I sat down in one of those very comfortable hotel lobby chairs, charged my phone, went through my pictures and went through my notes for the show that evening. I had previously written about Helen Anthony but have never seen a physical show and I was very excited to be a part of this in person. From what I had remembered, Helen Anthony's designs were exciting and a little bit showy but very tailored. It was an interesting balance between something that could be stage appropriate and something that could be incorporated into a personal closet.

I had about 10 minutes before the actual time on the invitation and had noticed that there was already an enormous crowd and lining up. So I decided this is probably time to join them. I packed everything up and instead of going to the back, I went to the front. Because what good is being in the press if you can't use the press line? After some time, I was seated and watched the pre-show begin. The attendees were dressed to entertain. I watched all of these little groups in their little stories. Fashion people that enthusiastically greeted each other as if they hadn't seen one another in years, another group comparing notes on who they're wearing and a very curious gentleman dressed in what looked like pajamas and a briefcase and some bubble wrap around his neck. The social media starlets posed for their pictures, others fussed about demanding to be seated... Through all of this I saw the designer popping in and out from backstage to make sure that his personal VIPs are comfortable and well seated. It was actually very nice to see the designer himself be so involved in the pre-show chaos.

The show itself was fast-paced and the looks were in abundance. Everything was brightly colored and tailored beautifully. There were pieces that resembled a '90s/’00s Wall Street look, a little bit reminiscent of “American psycho”. There were dramatic trains on coats and skirts, beautiful suiting, oversized accessories and just stunning colors. Anthony kept up with the bottomless trend with briefs as bottoms. Control top pantyhose were worn with several if not all of the looks and I really appreciated that. I thought there was a certain sense of humor in it. The show was going beautifully and that suspicious man with the bubble wrap collar ended up crashing the runway. He joined one of the models who seemed completely unbothered, walked down the runway and tore off his pajamas to reveal a faux muscle suit and then was quietly escorted out by the showrunner. This interruption did not ruin the show, the collection was strong enough to stand on its own and kept the attention of the audience.

This AW24 collection is meant to pay homage to the timeless and meticulous tailoring techniques that designer Naeem Anthony had developed over his career. On the surface it's just a very beautiful collection, but as the collection unfolded we could see that it is quite diverse in all forms and strongly stands at the crossroads of heritage and modernity. This season, I was lucky enough to get a few questions answered from the designer himself and here is what Naeem Anthony had to say...


1) What made you decide that you wanted to take on a career as a fashion designer?
From a young age, I found myself drawn to the allure of various fabrics. While I may not have had the means to acquire garments for myself, my grandmother would help me out. This early exposure sparked my curiosity, leading me to delve into the world of design. For me, the journey towards becoming a fashion designer was a natural progression, as I firmly believe in the importance of self-discovery. While others may explore different career paths, I remained entirely to fashion, recognising it as my true calling. I am a firm believer that each individual possesses unique talents, and for me, fashion became the canvas through which I could express myself authentically.


2) What do you most enjoy about your designs?
What I most enjoy about my designs is the ability to materialise my imagination into tangible forms. Through my creations, I am able to articulate my identity and vision to the world. Each garment allows me to convey my perspective through artistry.

3) What are you inspired by for AW24?
The inspiration behind my AW’24 collection is rooted in the concepts of freedom and diversity. While craftsmanship undoubtedly plays a crucial role, it is the exploration of these overarching themes that serves as the driving force behind my creative process.

4) What's inspiring you lately? What are you into?
Recently, Scotland has emerged as a significant source of inspiration for me. The beautiful mountains and lush greenery of this picturesque landscape have engaged my imagination which I channel into my creative vision.

5) If you weren't a fashion designer, what do you think you'd be doing?
The idea of pursuing a career outside of fashion has never crossed my mind. From a young age, I was fortunate enough to have discovered a passion that felt inherently right. Fashion became more than just a profession; it became an important aspect of my identity. Therefore, the idea of venturing into an alternative career path simply does not resonate with me.

For more about Helen Anthony, click HERE