Minuit SS24 and Interview with Laurie Arbellot

Up until this point I think it's been fair to say that I have not come across that many collections that are as sexy as they are masculine. And not tawdry, but quite sexy, almost seductive. Captivating, if you will. Minuit is the brain child of Laurie Arbellot, whom I have decided is the coolest girl I've ever met. I had a chance to speak with Laurie about her career thus far and her perspective as a designer in this vastly changing industry. This collection is what happens when you put New York grit together with Parisian romanticism. A very tough looking girl on the outside but once she takes off her tough leather outer layer, there is a sensual silken personality. Unexpectedly refined and yes, hopelessly romantic.

Hello Laurie, how long have you been designing Minuit?

So for Minuit exclusively I've done it for like two years and a half, I would say. And it's my fifth collection and before this I was working for big houses. I was in New York City for a long time at Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler. And then, when I moved back to Paris, because I'm Parisian, I decided to start Minuit because I’ve always wanted to do my own brand since I was kid. So I thought it was time for me. 

What do you think your main design aesthetics are, what are your main principles? 

I would say since I worked in New York for a long time and I'm a Parisian, but I’ve only worked with American designers before, it's a mix of industrial, New York City I would say, and classic Parisian. So it's about my travels and everything and It's also exactly how I dress. Like it's an extension of myself. I love transparency and beautiful, super sexy silk dresses. Sleep dresses are the best and you mixed them, you know, with a lot of leather like a heavy leather jacket. Like the one that you steal from your boyfriend for example, or with big boots. Yeah, so it's tomboy but super sexy tomboy. I don't mind showing my body but not in a vulgar way, but just through subtle touches.

What about for somebody who doesn't have a leaner frame and it's harder to pull off? What would your advice be? 

I receive a lot of women of all body types in my showroom and I think all women are able to wear these clothes because I designed them with stretch fabrics with different body types in mind. I am really into fabrics and I love stretch fabrics because I think it fits everyone and every body is beautiful and it makes a figure very beautiful. I am sure the items will look amazing on a more voluptuous woman and even men.

For example those tomboy pants. I love wide pants and I think they look good on men and women. I was super surprised because I started selling them in a shop in New York and I saw so many guys on Instagram who bought those pants. I think it was really good. I would love to expand and make everything for everybody. But also, it cost a price. I'm still a young designer, but definitely, I want to, I want everybody to be able to wear my clothes.

Would you do a menswear line?

I would love it! Like I said, some pants are currently a good fit for men. Two of my best friends actually put some of my pants on and also the leather jackets. So many guys try them on and want to buy them. So I think I'm gonna try to do more unisex items. Something that goes really well for women and men. I personally am tall and I am really square like, I love menswear; men's sweaters, men’s jackets and everything. I'm not ready to do men's dresses yet unless they want to wear it, but I think there's a bunch of items that guys can wear in my collections currently. 

What are you the most proud of in this collection? 

Actually, I love the white dresses. They're made in fil coupe. It’s a huge circle of fil coupe and it's so transparent. We developed the fabric in France with one of the most beautiful factories for silk and it's a bit of a crazy fabric. It's really weird but really delicate at the same time. But super weird which I like. I try to have like two or three fabrics every season that I custom make that include an unusual pattern. This season we call this fil coupe the “full moon”, because Minuit, “full moon”.

For this season, what's the story behind it?

Alors, it's more like I'm trying to keep the same vibe every season because I think it's really important to keep your identity and that the client goes back to you every time. But I would say it's more 60s this season because I wanted to include big circles and everything. I also wanted to do a lot of crochets, I did like a full crochet dress. Homemade by hand so it's really expensive but I always try to bring metallics into everything. It's party outfits but like more in a modern way made with new textures and new fabrics. Last season was more 70s. This season is definitely more successful.