Nina Ricci AW24

I've never seen so many paparazzi at a show before. It was so packed at the entrance of the show that it took me a minute to realize I could cut through that crowd and go to the door, I have an actual invite and I could proceed! When we got inside Coco and I noticed all of the Japanese in attendance and were reminded of the fact that this label was kept alive throughout the 2000s largely due to the Japanese market and the iconic Nina perfume. Nina Ricci was not a huge name in the States or even in Europe anymore at that time but lived on in licensed merchandise such as house slippers, aprons and handkerchiefs tucked in the purses of many Japanese ladies.

All of a sudden it felt like the paparazzi were inside. The stage lights mimicked flashes and the background noise was camera clicks and people shouting "Nina!", as if to get Nina's attention for a photo opportunity. Then models started to fiercely strut the runway. A strut that I have not seen in quite some time. A very focused, direct and exaggerated catwalk. It made sense with the clothes being very retro inspired. The lace and pinstripes gave me a very nostalgic En Vogue (girl group from the 90s) feel. Polka dots in black and white with red accents reminded me of Bette Midler in the 80s. Exaggerated bows and ribbons accompanied ultra short double-breasted jacket dresses. Crocodile stamped leather bows adorned a velvet bodysuit and fur hood.

The sheer trend was still alive and well with Nina Ricci. Many sheer looks were paired with the crocodile stamped leather. I loved the usage of traditional menswear throughout the entire collection as well as the appearance of plus sized models that have all but disappeared since 2022. Harris Reed was the only designer that I saw this season that still incorporated more robust body types. I didn't even realize Ashley Graham walked until I looked through my photos. What a wonderful surprise. My personal favorite looks from this season where the sheer mesh and lace looks. All of them. I feel that Harris Reed does sheer so well. The lace jacket with all of the seaming was so beautiful paired with a lace trouser. I'm so pleased to see the iconic Nina Ricci label breathe back to life with its fashions through Harris Reed. It's about time.

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Sophie Lin